Big Seas, Portland to Port Fairy

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October 2019

We had an interesting start to the journey to Port Fairy. The morning we left started earlier then we would have liked, it was about five am when Allagia rocked from side to side so violently that she nearly rolled me out of bed. Portland is a major shipping port for large cargo ships and so has pilot boats operating day and night to guide these ships into the harbour. Generally the pilot boats leave at an appropriate speed as to not throw a large wake and disturb the marina too much, however this morning that wasn’t the case. The pilot boat screamed out of the harbour throwing a huge wake that pummelled into the marina at high speed and was the cause of our rude awakening. Although this early wake-up call wasn’t our biggest issue as a loud ping-ping was heard outside. Hugo leapt out of bed at the speed of light because that sound could only mean one thing when tied up in a marina, lines snapping. Which is exactly what had happened, our lines weren’t brand new but they were also far from being threadbare so this was shocking to say the least. The pilot boat had left such a monstrous wake with such a short period that the fast backwards and forwards motion created as each new wave hit us was just too much for our lines, causing two of the weaker ones to snap. But luckily it was only the two that let go and we were still held to the pontoon by three others all which had survived the previous weeks storm.

The rest of the day also proved to be quite an adventure. The distance between Portland and Port Fairy was only about 30 miles but that day to me it felt more like 300 miles away. The previous week a large low pressure system had passed through the area whipping the seas up to 6-7m and another front was set to follow in a few days. However by the time we left the real time data on a nearby waverider buoy recorded the seas in the 4-5m range and we were forecasted to have pleasant breeze of 10-15kt behind us. With another impending front we had little choice, if we didn’t leave for Port Fairy that day then we would have been stuck in Portland for another week, maybe more, until the next system passed. Naturally we decided to go, with a period of 12-13 seconds the waves should be rolling hills and nothing that Allagai or her crew couldn’t handle. However my stomach apparently didn’t get that message, I spent the entire trip to Port Fairy as crook as a dog tucked away down below so I was one less thing for Hugo to worry about. The weather was perfect for once the forecast was correct and the swell not an issue. Hugo had a ball out on deck and that sail would probably be one of his most memorable trips. The few times I came above deck the waves were huge but docile. When in a trough and you were looking up at the next wave, which was nearly nine meters above you, it really had a way of making you feel small. But they were like rolling mountains Allagai just gentle rose up and down the waves never faltering. With the forecasted 10-15kts of wind there was no chop on top only swell so the motion was relatively smooth as we raced along. It was around four in the afternoon that Port Fairy finally came into view although we were a little disconcerted at first when all we could see was white water and breaking waves. We knew that to get into the harbour we had to find the river entrance which was indicated by a port marker but to start with all we could see was surf. However as we got closer and further into the bay the white water started to clear and we found the marker and could start to make out the channel into Port Fairy. Sailing into Port Fairy gave you the sense that you had sailed back in time with old buildings converted into cafes and restaurants sitting on the edge of the river and people taking an evening stroll along the wharf. Allagai with her traditional looking rig fit right in with the quaint old feeling of the town.

We spent seven days in Port Fairy exploring the town, Griffith Island and the nearby beaches, on a couple of the days it was even warm enough to go snorkelling. To get to the beach was about a 2km walk and on a 35 degree day we couldn’t wait to get in the water. However we had gone prepared with wetsuits and felt absolutely ridiculous putting them on on such a hot day. But just because the outside temperature may have been nearly 40 it was still the Southern Ocean and it didn’t disappoint, the water was frosty. Even wearing wetsuits we couldn’t stay in the water for more then 15 minutes without getting headaches and numb fingers and toes.

While in Port Fairy Hugo’s family also came to visit driving all the way over from Kangaroo island to spent three days with us. During their stay it was a whirlwind of activity with everyone wanting to make the most of this time together. It was also great for us because we once again had access to a car, you don’t realise how much you take something for granted until you have to do without. The nearby town Warrnambool was just around the corner by car and they happened to have a second hand store which had two folding bikes advertised for sale on Ebay. This was just what we’d been wishing for in Portland and so we couldn’t resist buying them. Warrnambool also had a fantastic maritime museum which we spent the better part of a day walking through. Finally though the week came to an end and his family continued on their road-trip and the time and weather came for us to leave continuing east on our journey to Tasmania next stop Apollo Bay.

Folding bike before.

Folding bike after.

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